As I mentioned earlier in the week Estethica has found its way into the spotlight this season, opening London Fashion Week with Noir's catwalk and the launch of the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan. The bar has most definitely been raised in design terms as well, with some very forward looking collections on show from hot new fashion talent. Unquestionably three of the brightest stars are Christopher Raeburn, Ada Zanditon and Mark Liu. Click through to find out more about their innovative work...
'Remade in England' says the label inside the Royal College of Art graduate's amazing coats. This very British designer has created a signature style by reusing decommissioned military textile stock, including parachute fabric for his rain coats, and 100% British wool for some beautiful black capes. Last season he used German alpine camouflage textile for his collection (pictured at top of page).
Raeburn's designs are exceptional for their elegant shapes and beautiful detailing with an urban twist. What's more this is a man in demand, with several exciting collaborations on the horizon and one under his belt with menswear designer Tim Soar this season. Watch this space for plenty more from Raeburn.
Couture comes to Estethica with Zanditon's extraordinary collection entitled 'The Incantation of Amergin'. These fantastic sculptural pieces bring to mind fairytales of old. Ada says she has been inspired by "celtic mythology and Megalithic architecture from across the United Kingdom and Ireland" the imagery of which can be seen in the custom made silk textile she has designed, woven by the traditional English textile house Vanners.
This recent graduate of the London College of Fashion says she "believes in supporting traditional skills and UK industry" by choosing heritage fabrics such as hebridean wool, she also uses Fair Trade organic cotton and employs a zero waste policy "by saving the fabric residue and shredding this to create padding utilised in scarves and shoulder pads." Zanditon also made waves in Paris last season where she won the award for creativity. The theatricality of her work has attracted several performers including singer Patrick Wolf, who Zanditon has made bespoke costumes for. We think Bjork + Roisin Murphy need to get in touch!
Another zero waste champion is Mark Liu who we have celebrated before for his innovative approach to pattern cutting, eliminating any possibility of offcuts. This season Mark Liu continues to innovate this time with an amazing new dye technology called Permaset Aqua, a new water based pigment manufactured by Australian company Colormaker Industries. The pigment's microscopic particles bond with the fabric obviating the need for toxic mordent chemicals.
Appropriately Liu's AW09 collection is called 'Singularity Point', which he explains is a phenomenon where "a system becomes aware of its own limitations and eventually rewrites its own rules to take control of its own destiny." We're definitely impressed by the way Liu's work is rewriting the rules, combining technology + creativity to show us the future of fashion.
More on London Fashion Week:
4 New Designers to Watch at London Fashion Week
London Fashion Week: Fabulous Ethical Knits
London Fashion Week: Ciel SS09 is Bold with Beautiful Prints
Clever Patterns Cut Waste Out Of Fashion
London Fashion Week: Accessories