Adam Gopnik on Eating Local in New York
Photograph by Josef Astor, New Yorker
Adam Gopnik and his kids are learning to forage in Central Park from "Wildman" Steve Brill.
"This is lamb's-quarter," Steve was saying, clearing a path to what, to the unknowing eye, looked just like the desultory weeds where the softball ends up after the fat kid with glasses you've stowed in right field watches it go by. Lamb's-quarter turned out to be a matte-green plant with arrow-shaped leaves.
Only a great writer like Gopnik could put that together, (read Through the Children's Gate and weep) so I loved his article about "Eating the fruits of the five boroughs" in the New Yorker this week, which they have made available online.
Tom Philpott of Maverick Farms and Grist, who knows a lot more about the subject than just about anyone else, is far more critical. He calls it "a disappointing performance -- an exercise in glibness over depth -- by a prominent writer in what's probably our most influential magazine." ::Grist