Gramercy Tavern's Chef Mike Anthony Talks Truffles, Tomatoes, and the Real Cost of Food
photo: Ellen Silverman
When I first started to watch this interview I must admit I was expecting the same old farm to fork lingo that has become such a buzz word in American cuisine lately. And while I love the idea of farm to fork eating, I want it to become more than just a passing trend, but rather, an ongoing way of life. And it appears Chef Anthony feels the same way. This short interview takes the elitism out of locally sourced fine dining in a place that you would never expect it.In a recent interview with Open Table's Caroline Potter, Gramercy Tavern's Chef Mike Anthony talks about a culture of celebrating food through seasonal eating. Seasonal eating isn't about the foods that you can't have; it's about celebrating a gorgeous variety of high quality foods that are growing close to home and full of energy for the taking. "The variables are where the magic is," says Anthony. Produce seasons vary in the same way that wine vintages vary so while tomatoes may have had a bad season, artichokes were great this year. He goes on to say that a homogenized world where everything is the same year in and year out means that you don't get to enjoy the highs or the lows and how boring is that?
And what's his take on truffles? Well, he loves them but you won't find them at his restaurant. "We sell luxury with foods that are full of energy." While he loves to eat truffles, truffles, and more truffles when he's in a place where they are available, getting them from abroad means they are a "mere shadow" of what they could be and he doesn't serve "watered down images."
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