Green Basics: Organic Cotton
by Collin Dunn, Corvallis, OR, USA on 08.23.07
Ed. note: This is now the seventh post in the Green Basics series of posts that TreeHugger is writing to provide basic information about important ideas, materials and technologies for new greenies (or those who just need a quick refresher). Read on and stay tuned!
Organic cotton is the version of its conventional counterpart grown without pesticides, herbicides, insecticides, chemical fertilizers or any other chemicals, and that makes it hugely different, especially considering that cotton (organic or otherwise) provides about half of all the world's fiber needs. Conventional cotton is one of the most chemically-dependent crops, sucking up 10% of all agricultural chemicals and 25% of insecticides on 3% of our arable land; that's more than any other crop per unit. That adds up to 1/3 of a pound of chemicals to produce enough cotton for a t-shirt, and 3/4 of a pound for a pair of jeans. And that's just not bad for the planet; 20,000 deaths occur each year from pesticide poisoning in developing countries, many of these from cotton farming, according to the World Health Organization (WHO).
Organic cotton, on the other hand, uses agricultural methods designed to help sustain the land it grows on, the people who grow and harvest it, and the planet in general. Organic farming really starts with the soil. Compost, frequent crop rotations and cover crop strategies replace synthetic fertilizers to keep the soil healthy and productive. Weeds are controlled by innovative farm machinery, hand labor or flame devices rather than herbicide applications. Rather than attempting to eradicate all insects with chemicals, organic farmers cultivate a diversity of natural enemies which prey on insect pests, and lure pests away from cotton by planting trap crops. Insect pests can be effectively kept in balance with well-timed introduction of beneficial insects to fields. In warmer growing regions, where the cotton plants must be killed or defoliated to pick a quality crop before the onset of winter rains, organic growers shut off water early, and apply certified materials to promote cotton boll opening and leaf dropping, readying the fibers for harvest. In the US, both conventional and organic cotton are mostly machine-picked; in some developing countries, cotton is still harvested by hand.
When it comes time to harvest by hand, it follows then that organic cotton is also much safer for those who pick it. Workers aren't exposed to breathing or otherwise ingesting toxic chemicals while active in the field, and don't have to worry about the same nasty chemicals getting into their water supply if they live nearby. They can raise healthier children and livestock, and everyone is happier (okay, we made that last part up, but it seems to fit, right?).
Like other organic products (food is the most prominent example), organic cotton must be certified as such by a third party, based upon pre-determined rules and regulations for what is and isn't allowed in the cultivation process. Here in the United States, the US Department of Agriculture (USDA) regulates the organic certification process, based on the standards set in the Organic Food Production Act of 1990 (OFPA); because organic cotton is grown around the world, and the US supply is not large enough to keep up with demand, other certification groups are often cited for products we see and use. The Dutch organization SKAL (one we've seen around a lot), for example, works in Europe, South America, Africa and Asia to certify different agricultural products as organic. Among the rules for certification, in addition to the ongoing ban of pesticides and other chemicals, is that the soil cannot have been sprayed with any of the banned substances for three years, so proper organic certification takes significant time, effort and bureaucratic rule-following (some might call it hoop-jumping or cutting red tape, but we won't) but the results are something to be proud of: a truly sustainable product.
Loomstate is one of the companies that pioneered organic cotton's renaissance early in the millennium, with designer cuts and sexy looks.
When it comes time to put it on, many believe that organic cotton is softer and easier on your skin (though we don't have any scientific data, this TreeHugger is happy to corroborate this), and, of course, there aren't any latent pesticides or other chemicals that might disagree with your skin. This extra comfort is an added bonus when considering all of the benefits for the planet and its people, and the result is that organic cotton has been growing at an incredible rate.
Market retail leaders like Patagonia and Nike, who both blend and use organic cotton exclusively in their outdoor apparel, are being joined by high-end designers like Loomstate and Katherine Hamnett (whose work is directly above). This has been modulated by more mainstream designers like H&M, The Gap, Levi's and L.L. Bean, meaning that it's easier (and cheaper!) to get than ever before. Doesn't that make you feel all warm & fuzzy inside?
More information can be found via the USDA, the Sustainable Cotton Project, the Organic Trade Association and PAN Germany's Directory for Organic Cotton. It's been a very popular topic here at TreeHugger; in addition to all the links above, we've mentioned it in everything from wallpaper to crib sets, underwear to aprons, long johns to yoga mats and towels and sheets to organic cotton candy (wait a minute...). We also recommend a quick spin through our How to Green Your Wardrobe Guide for info on organic cotton and other green textiles.
Organic cotton does a lot to make everyone feel all warm & fuzzy.
TreeHugger's Green Basics column appears every Thursday here at TreeHugger.
I'm all for organic cotton and bamboo textile clothing and look for them when sprucing up the wardrobe, but why does it seem they're made overseas. That's an awful lot of carbon footprint in transportation.
Great article!
Probably because no one would buy them if they were made at US manufacturing costs. You also have to consider that the raw materials would be incredibly wasteful to ship hear. If most organic cotton is produced outside the US it is a lot more efficient to send a container ship full of jeans to the US than it is to send a container ship full of cotton fluff to the US to be made into jeans. I think the real waste comes in once it gets here. A huge cargo ship is pretty efficient, but we then put it onto thousands of trucks because we don't like efficient trains in this country.
Hi All! Yes, it is expensive to manufacture bamboo and other sustainable garments in the US but isn't our future worth a few extra bucks? Check out my line of bamboo apparel at trubu.com, it's all manufactured in California! We are just getting it launched, it's beautiful and feels like a million bucks and while it's a tad higher than some of the garments made in China, we feel it's definitely the way to go! Enjoy and have a lovely weekend! And, change your shirt, it will help change the world! :)
I love organic cotton! I have a couple jackets that are organic cotton & they are the softest ones I have even after several washes!
Texas is a significant source for organic cotton and organic cotton fabrics are spun, knitted, and woven here in states. So not all oganic fabrics are from overseas. If anybody's looking for organic cotton baby/toddler clothing, check out my baby business, www.sweettbaby.com. I do all my manufacturing here in Atlanta, GA. I also watched the 11th Hour last night and it far exceeded my expectations. It's powerful!
I own a small organic clothing company and I make everything and hand dye it myself. If I order premade t-shirts then they are american apparel. I have had offers to have my designs produced oversea, which would make my profit Huge, but I won't do it. I would rather stay a small business and make the most eco-friendly options available. If I do have my designs produced I will have it done in America. There are a lot of companies that have things made in the US and they are making less money, but can feel great abotu what they are doing. Maybe if these Big companies were less interested in profits they would support our economy and more farmers here would grow organic cotton. For the prices that they are selling items for (ex-jeans for 170.00) they could afford to support our economy.
I produce organic kids clothing and want to add that if you are buying printed garments to check whether the ink is organic too and not stuffed full of chemicals - as this rather defeats the object!
Over here in the UK you can buy clothing that has independent certification for the Soil Association so it's worth looking out for the label. You can see my certified organic kids clothing range at http://www.arabellamiller.com
The famous "it takes 1/3 of a pound of chemicals to produce enough cotton for a t-shirt" line is just completely inaccurate, not to mention the other "statistics" out there on conventional cotton. The quotes taken are from at least 30 years ago.
Today there are virtually no chemicals applied to cotton because of integrated pest management, which means they introduce predator bugs to kill the harmful bugs on the cotton plants. (done on both oragnic cotton and conventional cotton)
Cotton uses hardly any water because they are very draught-tolerant plant. This is why cotton can grow in Texas, California and other hot climates!
Again, this is all about marketing! Anyone can make anything sound good if they are using incorrect data!
Thanks for that comment Meg, I have always wonder about that statement. Do you have references I can check?
Hello,
I live in Topanga, CA. My business is primarily custom upholstery. Todays clients are asking for 100% organic cotton to be used both for the inserts of pillows, cushions, etc. and the outer materials as well. Can you assist me with a wholesale company dealing in organic cotton in the Los Angeles area where I can purchase my materials?
Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Karen Sherwood
Hey guys,
I created a site for people to gain more information on the various organic and all natural clothing options that are available all over the world. Check out the site, if you have any suggestions/ideas let me know.
www.AllNaturalClothes.com
Studio Scrubs, all sustainable health care uniforms! Sooooo soft and made in Canada! Check them out!
www.studioscrubs.com
is it correct that cotton organic is used (recycle) cotton product ?
To address the question raised earlier about the lack of locally produced organic cotton goods, "Grow Free" is a new line of organic clothing for girls and juniors that is designed, grown, sewn and made in the USA. The site is still in its early days, but check it out for a preview of the clothes: http://www.growfreeusa.com
Online ordering will be available within a few weeks.
Although Nike may use organic cotton, I can't ignore their use of sweatshops to make their products.
Other than that, yay for organic cotton!
Very good article and very true comments.
Organic cotton does cost a bit more, but worth every penny!
Personally, paying that extra bit for reducing the ecological footprint of my clothes makes it all the more satisfying - I know I will make the best use of them as I've spent my hard-earned cash on them! It goes against the worrying trend of consumerism at the moment, where people completely restock their wardrobe every season, a waste of money, materials, and landfill. It really makes no sense to me. I
is there a site that lists the carbon footprint of some of the products talked about here--specifically organic products made in usa. does any one provide that info and is there anywhere manufacturers can apply for this data to be developed for their company and wholesalers/retail to use this data as criteria for buying?
thanks--i think it could be a selling point --usa vs overseas.
I am founder and owner of the sustainable small business called ecofabs.
My company sells natural/ certified organic upholstery fabrics and sustainable fashion fabrics. Our products include but are not limited to 100% certified organic cotton fabrics, bamboo, Hemp etc
Our organization supports pesticide free farming.
We donate 5% of our sales revenue to encourage pesticide free farming in under developed countries and also to support underprivileged farmers and their families in the developing world.
please visit us and support the environment
our website is
www.ecofabs.net
or place an orde at 360-635-6510
Very good article and very true comments.
i am doing a project fopr school and you know what i think this is a great eye opener !!!!!
What about hemp? Are they really that afraid I might have a bad day and decide to roll up my shirt and smoke it??
I am thinking about buying some land and farming bamboo.I really love the idea and I live in the caribean.This is a very accessable thing for me to do and it can bring jobs to a poor communtiy.Can any one tell me how I could find buyers for the bamboo.I will also aprechiate it if any one has info. about importation regulations for bamboo to the USA.Thanks
poloismygame@yahoo.com
That's a great article with lots of valid information for the organic cotton market.
I am working for organic cotton farming companies for over 10 years now and i also started a new blog about organic cotton at fromorganic.com web site.
Feel free to come and visit my blog and leave a comment if you wish to do so.
Once again, this was one of the best articles i read on this topic so far.
I am a mother who buys organic clothing and I have to say it is very soft and lasts much longer than conventional cotton. I opened up my own boutique which sells natural and organic baby products. My daughter has very sensitive skin and sense I have been using these products she doesn't break out in rashes anymore. I would definitely recommend trying to go natural and organic...in small steps of course:)
If you are a parent who would like to try out some of these products, visit www.sweetiepiebaby.com