Do Farmers Markets Really Work? The Guardian Offers Constructive Criticism
by Sami Grover, Carrboro, NC, USA on 06.15.07
A little while back this author was accused of being overly critical, even whiney, for suggesting that farmers’ markets could be even better if more of an effort was made to reduce both plastic bag use and the amount of car traffic that some markets generate. Of course, we are still huge fans of farmers' markets, and local food in general, but we do feel that even great, green, sustainable institutions can strive to be even greener, and even better – after all, we have some major challenges ahead of us, and resting on our laurels isn’t an option.
On a similar note, then, we have just come across an interesting article by Guardian correspondent Rachel Dixon, also a big fan of farmers’ markets, who dares to ask if farmers markets really work. Rachel’s problem is not traffic, nor plastic bag use (she brings her own), but rather, firstly, the fact that many markets are too infrequent to have a real impact on farmers’ income, and secondly, that they are still seen as too elitist and expensive. Her article is, however, careful to point out that these criticisms mainly apply to UK markets, and she is also helpful enough to offer some insight into how these problems can be fixed.
On the issue of frequency, and economic impact, Rachel offers two possible solutions. Firstly, she suggests that markets should be made more frequent, and secondly, she suggests that farmers should make every effort to use the market as a marketing tool to attract more business elsewhere:
“Markets need to be held weekly or fortnightly wherever possible. Producers should make shoppers aware of other outlets where their goods are available. Market organisers can help producers forge links with local shops, or even schools, hospitals and care homes. Box schemes can be set up to increase access for less mobile customers. I'm sure there are other ways.”
Regarding the question of elitism, the article points out that farmers markets are actually often cheaper than supermarkets when it comes to fresh food. She also praises the model of US farmers’ markets, which have long been seen as less elitist than their British counterparts, and where voucher schemes sometimes operate to encourage less affluent citizens to shop local too.
For more information on local shopping and greening your food, check out our guide on How to Green Your Meals. ::The Guardian::
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Here's a partial solution to the farmer's market issues:
I work in Hartford, CT. Three times a week starting June 1st, there's a farmer's market where all the commuter buses drop off. There are also two other markets in the city, so they cover all five days a week. I walk there on my lunch break (because I take the bus into the city and like human powered transport), and bring my chico bags (that i got from greenfeet.com).
Also, all the farmer's markets in CT are WIC certified, which means that people who are on food stamps and state assistance can use it at the markets to buy their families locally grown produce. Connecticut hasn't done too much in the way of greening, but this, I think, is a pretty good deal.
The criticism seems slightly unfair.
Each farmers market is different, and has much to do with regional topography and land use, and the individual farmers and the clientele. I have never heard of a farmers market that was expected to provide the sole, or major, earnings for a farm. Perhaps some do, and good for that.
Most farmers markets serve to augment the farmer's income. Selling direct to the customer allows the farmer to gain much of the difference between his wholesale price and the supermarket pricing. It also develops a clientele for better produce, so customers start to demand more local food in their markets and restaurants.
The markets also serve as outlets for value added products from the farm that would otherwise be difficult to market - pies, dried herbs, beeswax candles, compost, knitted goods, woodworking, etc.
And the markets boost the retail vitality of the area where they're held - often town centers that have been hard hit by Walmarts on the outskirts. There's a much bigger retail cosmos than just the farmer to take into account.
So yes, let's help farmers markets to do better, and also let's support farmers in other ways. But it isn't entirely the responsibility of the farmers markets to serve as agricultural extention agents, agricultural schools, business schools. Some may want to, and that could be wonderful.
Folks can also pitch in to revamp regional land use regulations. Often farmers are just holding on by their teeth, and their only long term strategy is to sell their cropland for subdivisions. Farming has to be a viable, competitive vocation, or very few people will be drawn to it in developed countries.
I happened to be chatting to a local farmer recently about which farmers markets she attends, because I like shopping at the markets. She said that unfortunately the more local markets only happen once a month, and so she travels further afield for weekly markets. I think that farmers markets could definitely increase their frequency and that this would benefit not only the farmers and us, the customers, but the environment too if the farmers don't have to travel as far.
"Markets need to be held weekly or fortnightly wherever possible."
WOW!! I know of none that meet less frequently than that. How infrequently are they open right now in the UK?
I live in New Haven, CT and like Hartford, New Haven has several farmers' markets. I'm actually up quite late tonight, and was just lamenting the fact that I probably won't be awake in time for tomorrow's farmers' market (9a-1p).
Cityseed.org is the not-for-profit farmers' market resource in Connecticut, and their website adequately describes how our markets work.
During the opening ceremony a few weeks ago for New Haven's Wooster Square market, the ceremonial head of lettuce was tossed. Two teenagers were dressed as a tomato and a corn on the cob. The tomato caught the lettuce, and they were available afterwards for photos with small children. Definately a funny way to start the season!
I personally choose to bicycle to the market, and since parking is somewhat spotty there (it's near downtown busses anyway) most people walk or take the free electric trolley bus which follows a circular route around the city from 11a-6p Mon-Sat.
Some shoppers bring their own bags, but unfortunately, the canopies over the stalls are plastic, and plastic baggies are still used. Re-usable glass milk bottles are abundant though.
Josh, in answer to your question it's usually one market per month here in the UK, though it is getting better.
And until very recently they tended to be held on some weekday morning and therefore be totally unaccessible to those of us who work (assuming normal hours). I have never, /ever/, seen one advertised in advance except in specialist places (e.g. local Organic Nursery's newsletter). Planning laws preclude on-site notice ("Farmers' Market, here every Tuesday" or whatever).
The French have the right idea, they tend to do markets on a Sunday and they (are able to) pick a place where people are anyway: round the local church!