How to Green Women's Personal Care (TreeHugger)

What’s the Big Deal?

Personal care is a big subject, but basically we can take it to mean the caring for our general appearance: cleansing and cosmetics, haircare, skincare, makeup, hair removal and, of course, that time of the month most women deal with. We are bombarded daily with the coaxing of the worldwide cosmetics industry as it tries to sell us products which guarantee to make us look younger, thinner, and more gorgeous. Sadly, these products are not regulated to a level that would make most people feel very safe. Many of these products contain ingredients with dubious implications (many of which are petroleum derived), as well as potentially toxic agents that are not even included on the label. There are, however, easy and affordable alternatives available to every consumer. This guide aims to give you some general information, to point you in the right direction and inspire you to make a few small changes in your own routine. If we are going to invest so much time and money in our personal care and appearance, doesn’t it makes sense to do so in a productive way that doesn’t harm ourselves or our environment?

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Top 10 Tips

1. Chemical chaos—look at the label

The biggest and most complicated issue regarding the cosmetics we use are the unregulated chemicals that are used to make them. From the consumer’s point of view there are certain common substances to look out for (more on that below in the Get Techie section). The best advice is to learn the main ones to avoid and then check the product ingredient label. Or rather than scouring every label, you can also choose a cosmetics company that has signed the CSC’s compact and uses certified organic and natural ingredients.

2. No sweat—aluminium-free deodorant

Aluminium, which is commonly used in antiperspirants, has been found to not only it cause skin irritation, but the inflammation caused may spread beyond the areas where the antiperspirant is being applied, leading to more general inflammation. Antiperspirants also have another down side: by blocking pores, they prevent the body from eliminating toxins through perspiration, which reduces the body’s ability to regulate its temperature.’ Instead of using antiperspirant, try using natural deodorant brands that don’t contain aluminium, or try the popular crystal stick which uses natural mineral salts. (BBC report)

3. A natural smile?—toothpaste

Unfortunately, while we like a bright smile, many major brands of toothpaste contain chemicals like SLS, parabens, titanium dioxide for whitening, and high levels of fluoride. There has been concern for some time about the level of fluoride that we ingest on a daily basis both through drinking water and toothpaste. While we are told that fluoride helps fight tooth decay, high doses can also be poisonous. Since mid-1997, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has mandated all toothpastes containing fluoride to carry a poison warning. Luckily, as with deodorants, there are natural toothpastes on the market. Many people also find that just using a bit of baking soda will do the trick as well.

3. Taming the mane–hair care

The number of products we women put in our hair must easily outnumber the amount we put on our skin. Shampoo, conditioner, serum, wax, gel, hair spray, color…the list goes on. Hair, like the skin, is extremely absorbent and all those products can contain potentially harmful chemicals. Watch out for: shampoos and conditioners with SLS and SLES in them; hair dyes with carcinogenic coal tar, N.B. coal tar can also be present in strong dandruff and psoriasis shampoos; hairsprays and hair gels containing petroleum derivatives, formaldehyde, phthalates and synthetic fragrance. Read the Getting Techie section for more information on all these chemicals. Check out the TreeHugger Favorites section to find brands that make safe alternatives for all these products.

5. Oh so slick—petroleum-free products

Most of us aren’t too keen on the overuse of fossil fuels anymore. There are a surprising number of petroleum derivatives to be found in not only our cosmetics but also in other personal care products such as the plastics used in sanitary pads. Mineral oil, paraffin, and propylene glycol can be found as basic ingredients in the majority of cosmetic products. Once again, is it essential to read the ingredients and look for certified labels. One of the most obvious products using petroleum is lip balm and lip gloss—we’d go for the beeswax instead!

6. How did you get your tan?

There is much debate about the actual efficacy of SPF factors as well as studies into the potentially harmful ingredients used in sunscreens. According to The Ecologist, “Because sun creams encourage a false sense of security, we stay out in the sun far longer than is smart or safe. Few of us apply sun creams as regularly or as thickly as manufacturers recommend. Chemicals that provide sun protection are also potentially irritating to the skin, and irritated skin is more prone to sun damage. Emerging research also suggests that some of these chemicals are oestrogen mimics that persist in the environment and in the body.” We still think it’s important to protect our skin, so look for natural sun creams and/or cover up in the sun and stay out of the midday heat.

7. Cruelty free—no animal testing

We’re sure that even those of us who aren’t vegetarian or vegan would agree that testing cosmetics on animals is unnecessary and unethical. Look for the Humane Cosmetics Standard (HCS) label on products to check they are cruelty free. It is the world's only international criteria for cosmetic or toiletry products that are not animal tested. The HCS was launched in 1998 by an international coalition of animal protection groups from across the European Union and North America, including the European Coalition to End Animal Experiments.

8. Being kind to the earth—organic products

The above information might seem scary and cast all sorts of doubts over the products you are currently using, but in the Getting Techie section below we explain clearly the key ingredients to watch out for. On the positive side there are plenty of products that are not only cruelty free, but certified organic as well. A word of warning though, don’t be taken in by words such as Natural, Organic, or Hypoallergenic on the packaging; you need to make sure that the product has a certified label. You can look for the Eco-Cert label as well as the USDA Organic seal which is used in 80 countries around the world. Using organically produced ingredients ensures that not only are your cosmetics healthy for the environment, but it also means you don’t have to worry about your skin absorbing chemical residues either.

9. Toxic shock?—organic tampons and sanitary pads

It is well known that tampons come emblazoned with warnings about toxic shock syndrome. While rare, it still does occur in women who use super-absorbent and synthetic tampons. However TSS is not the only health danger in using these products. The chlorine bleaching that is used to make tampons and sanitary pads look “clean” produces dioxin, a known carcinogen and pollutant. Dioxin settles in the fat cells of our bodies and stays there for the rest of our lives, building up cumulatively over time. Therefore, increased exposure means increased risk. We recommend looking for 100% cotton tampons and sanitary pads, organic if possible.

10. Avoiding the landfill—menstrual cups

Another way of avoiding the toxins related to tampons and sanitary pads is to use a menstrual cup. This has several benefits. Not only is it reusable, but you will be saving money every month by not buying all those disposable products. Furthermore, if you are not buying them then you won’t be needing to dispose of them, therefore sending less to landfill. A menstrual cup is convenient, cheaper, healthier, and better for the environment too! There are cups made from rubber and silicone, however it is thought that the silicone cups are better for those who might have sensitive skin or are allergy prone.

Hard Core

Homemade beauty treatments

If you are keen to escape the marketing hype and save yourself some money you can always go into your kitchen and concoct some of your own delicious beauty treatments. That way you’ll know exactly what’s in the mix without having worry about identifying harmful chemicals on the back of the bottle and you can choose whatever ingredients you want. Although homemade means more time,it also means more satisfaction. Have a look at the links to the TH archives below where you’ll find some great homemade recipes. In the further reading section there are also some links to articles on homemade beauty.

By the Numbers

1. Major loopholes in US federal law allow the $35 billion cosmetics industry to put unlimited amounts of chemicals into personal care products with no required testing, no monitoring of health effects, and inadequate labeling requirements. (link)

2. One third of personal care products contain at least one chemical linked to cancer, according to the Skin Deep report by the Environmental Working Group, a partner of the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics.

3. 2 billion disposable razors end up in U.S. landfills each year. (Grist)

4. Animal welfare groups say 38,000 animals die needlessly in the EU every year in tests for new products.

5. Last year the UK sun-care market generated £182m. In particular, government advice for us all to cover up has boosted the sales of higher protection factor creams. SPF 15 and SPF 25 are now the UK’s most popular choices. Unfortunately the higher the SPF, the more chemicals the cream will contain. (link)

6. The National Environmental Research Institute of Denmark found that 77 per cent of rinse-off cosmetics contain parabens (the figure rises to 99 per cent for leave-on cosmetics such as sunscreens). (link)

7. The average T-shirt has an SPF of seven, and 85 per cent of fabrics tested in an Australian study had and SPF of 20 or more. (link)

8. The natural personal care market had “…an estimated value of $5 billion in 2004 and has grown by a total of 50 per cent since 2000." Skincare is the leading segment of the market with a value of $3 billion, while hair care has had the strongest growth over the five-year period. (link)

Getting Techie

1. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

“The rich soapy lather which gives us that squeaky-clean feeling when washing our hair is usually produced by sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), used in many foaming bathroom products. For some it can cause irritation, scalp rash and allergic reactions.” (link) “Its cousin, SLES, has shown itself to be less irritating than SLS. We believe both these substances should be avoided, because of the possibility of their reacting with other product ingredients to form dioxins and nitrosamines…Dioxin is an endocrine (hormone) disrupting chemical linked to several types of cancer, birth defects, learning disabilities, infertility, endometriosis and suppression of the immune system... Nitrosamines are known for their carcinogenic properties. SLS and SLES should be especially avoided in baby shampoos.” (link) Look for SLS and SLES-free shampoo, shower gels, toothpaste and bubble bath.

2. Parabens

“Parabens are a group of chemicals widely used as preservatives in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. They can be found in shampoos, commercial moisturizers, shaving gels, cleansing gels and personal lubricants. Parabens have been found to cause skin irritation, contact dermatitis, or allergic skin reactions.” (link) There was also a study showing parabens present in breast cancer tissue samples, this was linked to use of underarm deodorants, but many say there needs to be more research carried out before a causal link between parabens in cosmetics and breast cancer can be proven. You might not see the word parabens, but that does not mean they are not there, as these chemicals might be listed as methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben or butylparaben.

3. Phthalates

This group of industrial chemicals is linked to birth defects and is used in many cosmetic products from nail polish to deodorant. Phthalates are not listed as ingredients on product labels; they can only be detected through laboratory analysis. In April of this year, the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC)—a coalition of environmental, social justice, and consumer groups—learned that the FDA has completed a study on the safety of phthalates in cosmetics but is refusing to release its findings. According to preliminary information uncovered by the CSC, two-thirds of health and beauty products analyzed by the FDA late last year contained phthalates. Two of the most toxic phthalates, DBP and DEHP, have been banned from cosmetics products sold in the European Union (EU) but remain unregulated in the US. In response to the FDA’s refusal to publicly release this information, Friends of the Earth, a founding member of the CSC, has filed a Freedom of Information Act request to obtain the study. (link) OPI Products, the world's largest nail polish manufacturer, has removed dibutyl phthalate from its European product lines, but OPI refuses to remove the toxic phthalate from nail products it sells in the US.

4. Perfume

“Thousands of different chemicals are permitted to be used in perfume and they do not have to be listed on the product label. Fragrances have been linked to breathing difficulties and allergies. A typical cosmetic can contain 50-100 chemicals in the perfume. About 2,600 chemicals are commonly used in perfume; 95% of chemicals used in perfumes and as fragrances in cosmetics are synthetic compounds derived from petroleum. Because perfumes are of low molecular weight they can easily penetrate the skin.” (link)

5. Petroleum

“Mineral oil and petroleum are the basic ingredients in many cosmetic products today. Both mineral oil and petroleum have the same origins in fossils fuels. Cosmetics such as foundations, cleansers, and moisturizers often contain mineral oil. By locking moisture against the skin, mineral oil sits on the skin’s surface and can potentially block pores. This may cause the appearance of pimples because the skin cannot properly ‘breathe’. Fragrances in lotions, shampoos, and many other cosmetic products are composed of aromatic hydrocarbons. Perfumes and products containing fragrance can contain many hundreds of chemicals to produce a distinct scent. A significant number of these aromas are derived from petroleum. One popular chemical additive that carries moisture in cosmetics is propylene glycol. It is also a derivative of petroleum. Past research links propylene glycol to serious health problems as liver and kidney damage as well as respiratory irritation or nausea if swallowed.” (link)

6. Plastics in sanitary pads

“Since 1985, the trend has been towards thinner sanitary pads using less wood-based pulp and increased use of synthetic super absorbents made from petroleum. Apertured plastic film is mostly used as a cover on sanitary pads and liners today, and is often called the " Dri-weave top sheet". In reality, it is simply just loaded polyethylene film - or plastic with holes in to you and me… Disposal of used sanitary products is either by flushing out to sea, incineration, or depositing in landfill sites. Various pollutants, including dioxins, are continually deposited in the sea through sewage waste and air pollution from incinerators. This not only irreversibly damages and contaminates fish and other sea life; it inevitably results in human exposure to these toxins when we consume these plants and animals.” (link)

7. Carcinogenic coloring

“The Environmental Working Group found that seventy one hair dye products contain ingredients derived from carcinogenic coal tar. Coal tar hair dyes are one of the few products for which FDA has issued consumer advice on the benefits of reducing use, in this case as a way to potentially "reduce the risk of cancer" (FDA 1993).” (link)

8. The EU directive

In September 2005, an amendment to the EU’s Cosmetics Directive took hold, which ‘requires companies doing business in Europe to eliminate chemicals in their cosmetics that are known or strongly suspected of being carcinogens, mutagens, or reproductive toxins. Of the thousands of questionable chemicals in these products, the directive targets about 450. (Compare that to the nine chemicals the US Food and Drug Administration has banned or restricted in personal care products.) However, California has followed the EU’s lead. Hoping to emulate the EU’s efforts, California state senator Carole Migden has introduced the California Safe Cosmetic Act of 2005. This bill would require manufacturers selling cosmetic products in California to provide the state Department of Health Services with a list of their products and to identify products that contain chemicals identified as carcinogens or reproductive toxins. And another recent bill (AB 908), introduced by Assemblywoman Judy Chu would ban phthalates DBP and DEHP from cosmetics sold in the state.

From the Archives

The Health and Beauty section of the TreeHugger archive is a gold mine of information about female personal care. There are numerous posts on beauty products, eco-friendly brands and personal hygiene issues. You can browse this section for inspiration at your leisure, but in the meantime the links below are posts related to the key points made in this guide. Many posts have generated reader comments that are also useful and thought provoking threads to follow.

Check out TreeHugger’s top five pics in the personal care aisle.

TreeHugger interviewed Anita Boen, manager and resident herbal expert at Rancho Tres Estrellas, a small organic farm that provides herbs, fruits and vegetables for the world-renown destination spa, Rancho La Puerta.

Paraben-free products from Bon Santé

The Organic Pharmacy is a one-stop shop for organic lotions and potions, selling their own brand and others such as Dr. Hauscka and Living Nature.

Avalon Organics insures their Baby Avalon line does not contain synthetic fragrances, artificial colors, parabens, mineral oil, petrolatum, propylene glycol or sulfates.

Ethical Consumer investigates the concern that the chemicals in the suntan lotion itself may be something to be wary of.

The Razor Saver resharpens disposable razors and pays for itself in no time.

TreeHugger looks into the trend of transexualizing fish and the sunscreen connection.

Here’s a recipe for homemade lemon hand treatment that gently sloughs away rough patches, moisturizes, and brightens skin with sugar, coconut oil, and lemon juice.

A how-to guide on making soap at home—not quite as simple as the lemon hand treatment above but still it’s worth a go!

A few suggestions on how to make the most of tea tree oil and its very useful natural antibacterial properties.

Lunapads makes all sorts of female protection products such as menstrual pads, panties, cups and sponges, all washable and reusable.

The Mooncup is a menstrual cup to be used as an alternative to using tampons and sanitary towels, therefore reducing the amount going into landfill and saving yourself money in the process.

The Keeper is a rubber alternative to the Mooncup.

Yes, even lubes have petrochemcicals and parabens in them. Sylk Personal Lubricant is a 100% natural lubricant to keeps things slippery when wet!

This post highlights the growth of the natural skincare industry over the last few years. It also has information abut the US government’s ruling on organic labelling of beauty products.

As Europe reformulates the world's makeup, see how the US’s beauty product market could be overhauled.