How To Green Your Wardrobe
by Team Treehugger, Worldwide on 11.13.06
What’s the Big Deal?
Here's the irony: fashion is ephemeral while fabric and pollution are not. After all of the inspiration, image-making, and excitement pass, the clothes remain. Pouf skirts. Acid-washed denim. M. C. Hammer pants. They're out there still, in closets, thrift stores, and land fills. Eco-savvy fashion choices mean not only reducing post-consumer refuse, but also pre-consumer waste and pollution. After its origins on the farm, forest, or oil field, that jacket spent some time morphing into its present form. What chemicals were used to grow it? Were the dyes safe? As more designers and manufacturers create with eco-concerns in mind, it's easier to find satisfying answers. Through smart wardrobe management and consumer choices, you can cut down on closet clutter, support clean industry, and look fabulous. The FAQs below will help you navigate all of the terminology and find the best ways to green your wardrobe.Guide Navigation
Back To Top Λ
1. Shop with a plan
When you bring an article of clothing into your life, it’s kind of like adopting a dog or cat. That cute little number has to have a place in your wardrobe, and you’re agreeing to provide for and give it the longest possible life with you. Abandoning the impulse buy may sound boring, but how exciting is a closet full of stuff that doesn’t work? In the long run, knowing what you're looking for before you shop will save time and eliminate clutter. You'll get more use out of a piece that looks and feels great: What colors work for you? What fits work the best? How will the piece get along with everything else in the closet? If the answer to "Will I still want to wear this rhinestone-studded bustier in two years?" or “Can I eventually find a way to use it in a craft project?” is no, skip it.
2. Love your duds
Whatever you've chosen, take good care of it. When you get home, change out of work gear and into your famous dressing gown or leisure suit. Don’t cook or check the tire pressure in clothes you want to wear in public. Learn how to sew a button back on, or how to coax a nimble friend into doing it for you. Get the name of a local tailor or seamstress for major repairs or alterations.
3. Don't go dry
Though the industry has improved much since 1992, there is still a high likelihood that your trusty corner cleaner uses perc (tetrachloroethylene), a known carcinogen. See if there is a local green cleaner employing "wet cleaning" or liquid CO2 techniques. Many articles whose tags ask for the dry clean treatment can actually be hand washed, especially silk, wool and linen.
4. Buy vintage or used
People unload clothes for all types of reasons, and you know that adage about trash and treasure. From Oscar-worthy vintage dresses to Freecycled denim, you can likely find the piece you’re looking for second hand. You’ll be giving a cast-off garment a second life, and possibly supporting charitable work in the process.
5. Wash well
Washing wreaks the most havoc of all. It requires lots of water and energy, so only do it when you absolutely need to and have a full laundry load. Turn articles inside out and use the lowest temp possible. If you know you glowed all over a piece, make a thin salt paste and soak the affected fabric for a half hour before washing. Choose phosphate-free and biodegradable detergents and line dry as much as possible. Treat stains quickly with nontoxic removers. If you’re buying a new washing machine, look for one with an Energy Star label.
6. Wear organic
Though cotton is marketed as clean, fresh, and natural, conventional varieties are anything but. It takes a third of a pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to produce the cotton for one T-shirt! That means lots of direct, unhealthy exposure for farmers and nearby wildlife, and heaps of unnecessary pollution. Ick. Luckily, organic cotton is becoming easier and easier to find. As mega-stores get into the game, however, it’s important to stay vigilant about what organic means, so you know you’re really getting clean clothes. Also know that though the cotton may have been organic to start with, your T may be full of processing chemicals and metal-laden dyes. See below for more info on labeling and certification.
7. Find a re-purpose
A re-purposed garment used to be another or many other articles. Designers all over the globe have taken on this transformative challenge in recent years, with very wearable results. This means a one-of-a-kind look for you, a new life for old fabric, and a livelihood for maverick re-users.
8. Approach new fabrics with skeptical enthusiasm
No doubt you’ve heard the hype around bamboo, soy, or even corn fabric. The idea of finding alternatives to petrochemical-based and conventionally grown options makes us all perk up and we see why many eco-conscious designers are excited about them. Bamboo, for instance, sounds great: it’s a fast-growing plant, not reliant on chemicals, and beautifully drapes the human form. Trouble is, bamboo plantations can displace native forests, and the harvesting and fiber processing are often polluting and unregulated. As with soy, corn, and Tencel (which comes from trees), the processing from plant to fabric is energy and resource intensive. For now, approach these as alternatives to poly, nylon, acrylic or conventional silk and await more info. As always, shop with a plan: don’t fill multiple shopping bags just because the labels say “eco.” Read more about fabric choices below.
9. Choose clothes that work for you
It’s hard to feel beautiful in your raw silk dress when it’s likely that children’s scalded hands were part of the production chain. Conventional clothing might not say it, but clothing made under fair-wage and labor practices will usually advertise it. SweatShop Watch and Behind The Label are good sources of info. See more resources below.
10. Don’t throw it all away
Finally, a stain, a tear, or changing fashion threaten to separate you from your favorite dress shirt. Don’t just abandon your old friend to the waste-stream! If the condition is perfectly good, you can always donate or Freecycle it (see below for donation resources).
Back To Top Λ
1. Speak up
Tell your favorite boutique or department store that you want clean fabric or re-used options.
2. Get it re-made
Once you have a tailor or seamstress, take in last year’s clothes for an overhaul. That stained sweater could become a cardigan, and that too-tight dress, a skirt.
3. Swaporamarama
Get together with pals for fizzy drinks and a clothing swap. If it's new to you, it's new. Find out if there's a Swapormamarama in your area. If not, start your own!
4. ActivateJoin the Organic Consumers Association's Clothes for a Change Campaign.
5. Make donating a snap
Planet Aid places bins in convenient places to make donating old wearables easy. Is it easy for people to donate in your community?
Back To Top Λ
1. The average American throws away about 68 pounds of clothing and textiles per year.
2. 10% of all agricultural chemicals and 25% of insecticides in the U.S. are used to grow cotton.
3. It takes almost 1/3 of a pound of chemicals (pesticides and fertilizers) to grow enough cotton for just ONE T-shirt
4. Seven of the fifteen pesticides used on cotton are considered “possible”, “likely”, “probable”, or “known” human carcinogens (acephate, dichloropropene, diuron, fluometuron, pendimethalin, tribufos, and trifluralin) according to the US Environmental Protection Agency.
5. Some studies have shown that organic farmed soils have a better ability to absorb and retain carbon, which would be beneficial in the fight to reduce global warming.
6. Organically grown crops also use less fossil fuel than conventional crops, another benefit in the fight to reduce global warming.
7. Pesticides are suspected to be responsible the severe drop in honeybees, the increase in frogs with extra legs and eyes, and annual death of 67 million birds.
8. The U.S. textile “recycling industry” (which actually re-purposes rather than recycles), with some 2,000 companies, removes annually from the solid waste stream 2.5 billion pounds of post consumer textile product waste.
Back To Top Λ
1. What makes clothing organic?
Organic clothing comes from all-natural materials (no synthetics like polyester or rayon) and there are no pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, rodenticides, radiation, or genetically modified organisms used when growing the cotton/hemp/linen, or whatever plant we’re talking about.
Organic certification is complicated. According to the Organic Trade Association, organic cotton is grown in 12 countries, with Turkey and the United States leading the pack. There are a number of certifying bodies around the globe including: Demeter (Europe), KRAV (Sweden), Naturland (Germany), SKAL (Netherlands), The Soil Association (England), The Japan Organic Cotton Association, The International Natural Textiles Association (Germany), the USDA, and more. The International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) strives to create international standards, and certifies the certification schemes of individual nations.
The Institute for Market Ecology provides on-location certification on behalf of many of the organizations listed above, and according to the Organic Cotton Blog, is certifying Walmart’s and Sam’s Club cotton.
The Organic Trade Association has developed certification for fiber processing. What does this mean? Clothes certified organic will arrive having been processed, dyed, transported, etc. in the most non-toxic manner possible.
What are the various meanings of "sustainable" and "organic" clothing? Check out this informative examination from the Organic Clothing Blog. The Fiber and Fabrics section in general is a great place to learn about hemp, wool, bamboo... And the associated Lotus Organics Clothing, Fiber and Fashion glossary contains most of the fiber definitions you would ever need.
Back To Top Λ
Check out TreeHuggers Fashion and Beauty section for numerous green clothing resources. Below are some helpful articles.
1. For those new to the world of fashion, particularly green fashion, here’s a few key tips to knowing what's what.
2. Vegan Clothing – Explained.
3. Green clothes are made from all kinds of materials today – cotton, bamboo, hemp...
4. Is Silk Green? Find out.
5. Learn what it's like to make new clothes from old.
6. Check out the Umbrella Inside Out competition winner: a dress made from old umbrellas.
7. You can do it: Eco Laundry
8. Take care of stains without toxic removers!
9. Learn to vintage shop from the best.
Back To Top Λ
In addition to TreeHugger, these resources provide helpful, life-greening info.
1. Grist writer Umbra Fisk answers several questions on eco-fashion, an explanation about all things hemp, an explanation of natural vs. synthetic materials and the toxicity of conventional clothing.
2. Organic Clothing blog, started by the makers of Lotus Organics, is an excellent, well-researched resource on fabric issues from seed to manufacture to consumer.
3. Howies and Kate Fletcher are trying to create the “perfect shirt” a.k.a. a shirt with the smallest possible environmental impact. Through their adventure, we get to learn all about eco-textile issues. Soak up dye factors from their “dying for a change” report.
4. Summer Rayne Oakes Updates keep up with the intrepid model and eco-industry expert!
5.Textiles Online, a UK-based site that is “[e]xploring the evolving challenge of textile waste today.”
While we have not personally tried out each brand, after reading through this page, you should be armed with the tools needed to know what you’re looking for in clothing and whether a certain company is up to those standards. Below is a list of sources for finding organic clothing.
Okay so is it...
"It takes three-quarters of a pound of chemical fertilizers and pesticides to produce the cotton for one T-shirt!"
OR
"It takes almost 1/3 of a pound of chemicals (pesticides and fertilizers) to grow enough cotton for just ONE T-shirt."
Last time I checked one third of a pound and three quarters of a pound were very different (0.42 pounds different!) Inconsistencies like this are what cause me to doubt poorly researched and compiled articles such as this one.
Don't get me wrong, I am an avid supporter of sustainable design in all forms. I just think that in order to garner support for ones cause, a little more effort should be given to getting one's facts straight.
An organic clothing store in Fairfax, California just opened! It's called "tela d" and it's awesome! Men's and women's stuff. Check it out!!!
If only someone could figure out how to charge the same price for a quality organic t-shirt as a non organic one. Then we'd be on a roll.
I personally hate seeing mark ups on something because it's green or organic. There's no reason for a pair of quality pants/jeans to be over $50. Whether they're organic or not.
Micheal, thanks for pointing out our typo. It's jeans that require 3/4 lb., while a t-shirt requires 1/3 lb. Both numbers are from the Sustainable Cotton Project and are available here: http://www.sustainablecotton.org/html/manufacturers/ten_reasons.html. We stand by our info! Please let us know if you see any other inconsistencies.
Hmm, it would be interesting to know what the difference are between chemicals used in polyesters vs. cotton. I know a lot of people don't like the feel of those fabrics, but it seems like if cotton takes the same amount of chemicals to make and generally can take less abuse then perhaps we should be try to use more man-made fabrics for the time being.
donating old clothes is a very smart solution and a lot of people would love to support it. Yet the question always boils down to convinience and availability.
If only a lot more donation bins are available in convenient places, cutting down on carbon would be easier and people would be more active- especially those who really throw away their clothings (ie, the teens ;) )
or learn to sew, cuts down on the sweatshop element! and you can do your own recycling in house
Planet Aid is not a good charity. They are involved in a lot of shady business practices. They move tons of clothes and money around through both non-profit and for-profit organizations. They are associated with several organizations that were shut down or has lawsuits pending. Do not ask for their bins anywhere.
Nice overview. I'd like to elaborate on Top Tip #3, "Don't go Dry".
When faced with a "dry clean only" label on a garment from 100% natural fibers (cotton, wool, linen, etc.), always take a moment to consider what aspect of garment might be vulnerable in standard home laundering. On many all-cotton blouses, for example, it's actually the buttons that may be damaged or discolored when tumbled dried at high temperatures. Similarly, wool and silk sweaters may be labeled "dry clean only" to reduce the chance you will accidental felt/shrink them. The solution to both scenarios is obvious: use a drying rack (or dry flat) instead of tumble drying.
Some scenarios are harder to work around at home. Garments with sharp creases, smocking, or elaborate gathers will lose their shape the minute they hit water, so if you hate ironing, dry cleaning of some sort may be required. Laundering items with fabric trim (lace, ribbon, applique) at home can be tricky--thrift stores are filled with sad blouses edged with lace that shrank at a different rate than the rest of the garment. Other items, like silk ties, may be damaged by water (the dyes may bleed, the finish will be dulled, etc.).
Finally, an addendum to #5, "Wash well". If you've decided to launder delicates (including stuff tagged "dry clean only") at home, invest in some large lingerie bags. Having 3 or 4 of these means you can efficiently use the delicate cycle on a washing machine set to small load. Any delicates that should be protected from agitation (those feltable sweaters, the blouse with the not-so-sturdy buttons) get washed in these.
I am wondering about clothes one CAN'T donate, such as used underwear or one sock, or things that are stained or ripped in a manner that can not be repaired. Are there places to recycle the actual fabric? I otherwise donate all my unwanted clothing, (and blankets, sheets, and towels go to animal shelters) but short of making cleaning rags out of old socks, I do not know what else to do but throw some items away.
I have been looking for an answer to this for years. Any suggestions???
where can I buy an implement for removing balls of wool that form on woollen garments
I found this to be an excellent article and a great base for further research into many topics. Personally I am on the quest for hard facts concerning the processing of bamboo into textile. There does not seem to be much published information concerning the cons to this assuming wonder fiber. I basically know that in the process there is a highly caustic solution used to breakdown the bast fiber in addition to many bleaching phases. But what exactly does this mean? I would love some insight into the actual environmental impact to produce this material. I would appreciate any referrals to articles and even manufactures that are working under sustainably acceptable methods. In China? Vietnam? ???? Educate me! Thanks!
I found this to be an excellent article and a great base for further research into many topics. Personally I am on the quest for hard facts concerning the processing of bamboo into textile. There does not seem to be much published information concerning the cons to this assuming wonder fiber. I basically know that in the process there is a highly caustic solution used to breakdown the bast fiber in addition to many bleaching phases. But what exactly does this mean? I would love some insight into the actual environmental impact to produce this material. I would appreciate any referrals to articles and even manufactures that are working under sustainably acceptable methods. In China? Vietnam? ???? Educate me! Thanks!
Jpt, one thing you can do with old sweatpants/sweatshirts is make rag rugs out of them. Cut long strips of fabric, braid three together, sew more on to the ends of each and keep brainding, until you have a very large pile of braid. Then, sew the braid together with a blunt needle in either oval or circle (like spiralling it). I have yet to do this, but plan to.
I found this site looking for info on the processing of bamboo into textiles. Can you direct me to some good info on this topic? It is very difficult to find! Thanks :)
I'm all about buying organic and healthier products, but I'm with Myles on getting better products for a bit cheaper. Some that want to support this wondeful aspect of our lives can't due to financial reasons. Any suggestions on places to go?
Hi -
I look for organic clothing, but it's not always possible to find what I want. Meanwhile,I have been washing new clothes in white vinegar in hopes of getting rid of toxic finishes, etc. Does anyone know if this is effective enough or is there a better way of doing it? Someone mentioned using milk (sounds icky), but I haven't tried it yet. I'd alos like to find out about different fabrics like rayon and tencel. Which ones are less toxic? I sure would appreciate any info anyone can point me to on this topic.
Thanks,
Cathy
does anyone know of an eco-friendly clothing store that sells plus-size? It seems like a lot of online stores are inconsistent with size or they only cater to the small and rich. (no offense)
Re: Jessica's question dated March 30, 2007 at 5:13 PM; I've been Googling possible answers as I have the same problem, and I found a good link (http://www.bellaonline.com/articles/art47528.asp) that seems to have a lot of resources for larger eco-friendly fashionistas. Hope this helps!
If only someone could figure out how to charge the same price for a quality organic t-shirt as a non organic one. Then we'd be on a roll.
I personally hate seeing mark ups on something because it's green or organic. There's no reason for a pair of quality pants/jeans to be over $50. Whether they're organic or not.
--
editor note: Right now it has a lot to do with supply (not single factor, but a big one). As long as there's more demand than supply, it will be more expensive.. But the more it sells and the more money it makes, the more supply will be created, so it's important to support greener choices.
I am wondering about clothes one CAN'T donate, such as used underwear or one sock, or things that are stained or ripped in a manner that can not be repaired. Are there places to recycle the actual fabric? I otherwise donate all my unwanted clothing, (and blankets, sheets, and towels go to animal shelters) but short of making cleaning rags out of old socks, I do not know what else to do but throw some items away.
I use old socks or stained t-shirts as rags for dusting or other household cleaning. after cleaning i just rinse them and throw them in with the laundry and use them again--no more papertowels!
It seems as though many of the self-proclaimed "organic" supporters are missing the obvious connection to fur and leather products. You must first "clear your mind" of the misinformation that constantly circulates about the evils of fur, and look at the hard facts. Fur products are produced from a scientifically managed, abundant, and annually renewable natural resource. The harvesting methods are about as "green" as you can get, and the finished product is a biodegradable product, not some synthetic garbage that adds to the pollution problem. Go ahead, get your flamethrowers out for me, but before lowering yourself to responding with an emotional reaction, open your mind and think. Do some research. Thank you.
"You must first "clear your mind" of the misinformation that constantly circulates about the evils of fur, and look at the hard facts. Fur products are produced from a scientifically managed, abundant, and annually renewable natural resource. The harvesting methods are about as "green" as you can get, and the finished product is a biodegradable product, not some synthetic garbage that adds to the pollution problem. "
Except that most people who dislike fur don't dislike it because it's not "biodegradable". The two main arguments are that 1) You are killing sentient life that can feel pain and has a desire to live for CLOTHING, something that is not necessary. 2) fur and leather production are pretty polluting, usually outsourced to countries where environmental regulations are pretty loose. Lots of toxic chemicals used..
Why is it so hard to provide affordable eco-friendly products? The whole movement would go a lot faster if retailers could step up and open the door to consumers on all economic levels. Hybrids are more expensive, organic cotton products are more expensive, organic food and renewable farming products are more expensive. Won't someone get out and take a chance? They may find there is a bigger demand than expected.
--
editor note: It's a chicken and egg problem. Right now there is more supply than demand, so prices go up. Prices go up, less people buy, etc.. Production of greener things is ramping up quite fast right now, but still slower than demand.
There are tons of challenge too.. How do you ramp up production fast without losing the green side?
please tell me ralph lauren is going green as well i cant stand not wearing the cloths that fit, are comforatble and that i fell good in. and are they realy expencive cause i cant afford all that the cloths i have are always on sale as it is and can i git dressie and casual atire even ball gounes...
In response to Jessica's question:
"does anyone know of an eco-friendly clothing store that sells plus-size? It seems like a lot of online stores are inconsistent with size or they only cater to the small and rich. (no offense)"
My line Doie, www.doiedesigns.com is not a plus sized line, but my size large is very "liberal." The larges generally fit sizes 12-14. I will look into making an XL for next Spring.
Thanks,
Sara
I make most of my clothing, so would love to find on-line places that sell eco friendly fabrics to the consumer and ones that are reasonably priced.
Am I the only one who can't afford to shop at most of the stores you listed?
In answer to Gillian C:
Nope, you're not the only one. I can't afford anything in them either.
In general on the topic:
I'd just about kill for a reliable organic/free-trade source for fabric as I sew everything myself. It's like pulling teeth to find and treated like it's a jealously guarded secret from every store I ask with a massive mark-up.
Usually it's less expensive to make your own clothes even if free trade, but add organic into the mix and suddenly the price jumps through the roof.
I am having a problem with some of the claims on this website. You push organic cotton by saying that it takes 1/3 lb of fertilizer to grow conventional cotton fo produce a t-shirt. What you fail to take into account is, how much extra farmland is taken up to grow organic cotton (due to less vigouous plants) and how much extra fuel is burned to harvest greater areas of farmland. If organic cotton is so environmenatlly wonderful, why does it cost more? Where does the extra money go to? Fuel? Land rent?
You need to conduct un-biased studies before making specious claims.
Hey!
Can anyone point me to a source for purchasing organic cotton and or other material, I am a dog tee shirt designer and want to go Green with the K-9 kind. Thanks I am in NYC. Help.
Problem is, I'm never going to spend $100.00 plus dollars one ONE garment. I don't have that kind of money for that type of wardrobe. So, until this "eco-fashion" stuff filters down to the Old Navy or Target price range ... it's going to go beyond the levels of many wallets. The only way to make a huge shift into eco fasion is to give a more selfish incentive for people to buy it. Which means cheaper prices and better quality than all the other stuff out there.
I care about earth. But, if I don't have the money ... I just don't have the money. And no amount of research into sweat shops or pesticides will change that.
Re: Tip #1, A long time ago, I learned to shop in my "colors". It saves a lot of time and I need to only concentrate on fit and style. Everything goes with everything else.
I agree with Katie. I would love to take a more "green" approach to my clothes however for some of us, a budget is a real thing. I don't mean the "Oooo I've spent an extra $200 on a shopping trip." I mean the Ooo I've got no extra money right now because I'm Poor, yes with a capital P! Everyone wants to do the right thing, however it's a bit hard when you have to pick between eating and paying your bills in general. I do what I can, however until people pull their heads from their bums and realize being green shouldn't be more expensive just because I'm afraid green clothes, other than second hand, are out. Oh yeah I used to work for The Gap, and it's always amazed me how much of a mark up is on all that junk. So the prices could go down, it just means that CEO wouldn't be able to buy a new sports car this year... how sad. By the way that comment isn't directed towards small start up businesses.
Why does shopping for eco-friendly clothing have to be so difficult? I want to be able to buy clothes i actually LIKE, and i find so many of the organic lines totally ugly! and way out of my budget...i also hate trying to find thrift clothes--there's a reason someone gave them away in the first place. Why should i look like i'm wearing second hand clothes just because i happen to care about the environment? it's just so frustrating!!
I have to agree. I have recently decided that my hubby and I were going to "Go Green." I was looking into clothing and found that it is completely out of my price range. I simply cannot afford it. Why do they feel that organic and natural items need to be so pricey? I mean, it should be cheaper, shouldn't it? I also think that the high prices causes people to AVOID buying organic or natural prices because most people can afford them either. These clothing manufacturers are actually doing a disservice!