Food and Class
by Lloyd Alter, Toronto on 10.13.05
Tom Philpott runs Maverick Farms, blogs at Bitter Greens Journal and Maverick Eats. We do not know how he finds the time to write remarkable articles like today's Food And Class in Gristmill. He points out that where "Historically, people of limited means have tended to scrape by on what's locally available, while the wealthy have used their resources to draw in fancy food from far away. Now, that situation has turned upside down." So we pay 5 bucks for a tomato and 20 bucks a pound for lettuce that is grown locally and picked carefully while those with less money get McDonalds and Walmart groceries. -a must read. ::Food and Class in Gristmill
It may be different in urban areas, but down in Central Illinois produce at the local farmers' market is often much less expensive that what's found in the local grocery stores, especially for organic food. Also, because the big chains ship in their produce instead of buying local, the fruits and veggies there are obviously old. The farmers' market may not have kiwis or other exotic produce, but I'm still paying 50 cents for a fresh, ripe, handpicked tomato!
This class shift has been going on for ages: just look at the prevalence of white bread. It used to be a sign of status to be able to afford white flour, but with modern separation techniques it became easy to offer low-cost white bread, which the lower income masses picked up on as a "look, we can do it, too" kind of thing.
How wrong is it that I have to pay extra for my bread just so the people who make it don't remove all of the healthy (and tasty!) bits and then put some of them back in later. (and how is that "enriched"?)
But I agree with Illini -- sign up for a local CSA farm or shop at a farmer's market and you can get organic produce for the same cost (or less) than non-organic at a big-box store.
Chris, the problem is with CSA you have to have the money up front for the whole season. That's hard for the unemployed and working poor.
Also, the markets here are great, but I have to admit, the produce is MORE expensive than in supermarkets.
A very interesting read. I agree re: local farmer's markets. Or you could grow produce yourself. We have taken to grow boxes, basically plastic boxes with self-watering capability. They only take up a few feet and can produce plenty on a back patio or balcony.
Anyway, the problem, of course, is that these are seasonal markets and, unless you pick up the art of canning, you're back at the supermarket nine months a year. The reality is that organic and mass-produced no longer go together. As such, those who care (and can) pay more for these unanticipated luxuries.
I live in a major urban area (DC) and the farmer's market produce is at least as expensive as Whole Foods most of the time. There are a few exceptions, but in general, I pay the same $2-3/lb for tomatoes and fruit in season for local produce as I do at Whole Foods. Fresh greens are actually more at the farmer's market than the local Whole Foods. Farmer's markets are clearly not a solution for poor urban DC dwellers...